halter top sundress

The other day Smootch was digging around at the back of her closet and came out with a sundress I made, oh, almost two years ago now. It still fits, a bit snug, but still. When I made the dress I posted a quick (and not so good) tutorial over on Craftster.org, but I thought I'd enhance it slightly ( or a lot) with some illustrations for you good folks. This halter sundress uses two fabrics, a shell fabric and a lining fabric. The skirt is actually two pieces, with the lining fabric forming a slightly longer underskirt. There are two ways I've done the straps (that I've been happy with anyway). The first is the basic two straps tied together behind the neck. Another simplier way is to use a single piece of bias tape and sew it onto the finished neck curve (see topmost picture). I will give instructions for both.

Creating the pattern:

This is the shape for the top in aout a children's US size 2/3:

To make your own I suggest drawing a 10" by 11" grid and approximating the shape you see above. This size will allow a maximum of a 21" waist.

For larger sizes, increase the width as needed by cutting the pattern piece lengthwise (as shown below) and taping the two pieces onto a seperate piece of paper with the additional width needed between them (align the bottom edge for proper positoning). Trace around the original pieces and draw an approximated curve between the taped on pieces. Remove the original pieces and there will be your newly widened bodice.

To increase the length, add the length to the bottom of the piece. If it is to be a big increase, you may have to lower the curve of the arm also.

It's best to try your pattern piece on your recipient (if you can get them to stand still) before your start cutting.

Cutting the fabric:

Once your bodice pattern has been created, place pattern piece on fold and cut one of shell fabric and one of lining fabric.

Cut two straps (1.5" x 9" ish) OR have a strip of coordinating double-fold bias tape nearby.

For the skirt, cut a rectangle of shell fabric by shell rectangle, multiply the waist measurement by 2 for the width. Measure from the waist down to determine the desired length (my size 2/3 is about 14" long).

Cut another rectangle of shell fabric for the underskirt, using the same width as the shell rectangle, and adding 2" to the length.

Constructing:

If using cut material for straps, press a double fold in the straps length-wise and secure by top stitching. Pin the straps onto the right side of the shell bodice in this position:With the pinned straps in place, align the shell and lining bodice pieces right sides together. Stitch around the neck and sides, reinforcing the strap area.

Turn bodice, right sides out, and press.

Open bodice again and align right sides of the back of the bodice. Stitch the back closed.

To keep the back of the bodice from gaping open, stitch a line of elastic thread on the wrong side of the lining fabric as close to the seam between the the shell and lining fabrics (see above illustration).

Machine baste the bottom of the bodice closed.

If you are using a single strip of double folded bias tape ties, attach the mid-point of the bias tape to the neckline.

Finish the strap by folding the bias tape over and top stitching the length.

To create the skirt portion, sew the short sides of the shell rectangle right sides together to make a tube. Repeat for the lining rectangle. Place the lining skirt inside of the shell skirt, with right sides of both facing outwards, and machine baste the tops of the skirts together to make a skirt and slip. Gather the waist into the same measurement as the waist portion the the bodice (I recommend clear elastic).

Stitch gathered skirt and bodice top right sides together.

Hem skirts.

Enjoy!

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