dashiki

I know exactly what you were just thinking: 'I wonder if vegbee could show me exactly how to make a dashiki?' Isn't it freaky how intuitive I am with these things?

Yearn no longer! My daughter's preschool is doing an Africa theme over the next few months, and her teacher asked if I could make up a few garments to support their theme. So, I did. One of the things I like to do when I learn how to make something new is to attempt spread the method about, somewhat like influenza.

The basic shape of a dashiki is an A-line with wide bell shaped sleeves. Since unstretchy woven material is used (cotton, linen, or such), the neck has a slit in it vertically on the front to allow the head to actually get in.

I made my own pattern by starting with four measurements:

A = the desire arm length measure from neck down arm

B = armhole width circumference of the upper arm multiplied by 0.75 [or 3/4 of your upper arm measurement]

C = chest width chest circumference plus 5" for a child or 10" for an adult, then divided by 4

D = desired length measure from back of neck down

To begin, find yourself a rectangular piece of paper in the same dimensions of your A x D. The following picture shows how to apply your measurements to create a pattern piece that is to be cut along length-wise folded fabric:

If you mark the point where measurements B and C connect, then you can draw a gentle A-line out from that mark for the bodice, and a bell type curve for the sleeve.

To create the neckline DO NOT WING IT. A guessimated neckline is usually too big, particularly over the shoulders. Trust me on this: I've made this mistake so many times its embarrassing. Instead, there are two good methods I use frequently. One, get yourself a well fitting shirt of woven material from your closet and trace the neckline. Two, find yourself a curve square (also called a french curve), like so:

Marked on the square is the actual part of the curve that is typically used as a neckline curve by people who actually know what they are doing (how I envy them). The curve square will also do arm hole curves and all sorts of standardized measurements for our curvy bodies. Since I figured out how they work, I use mine all the time.

If you scroll back up to the picture with the main pattern piece, you'll notice a smaller sickle shaped piece just above it. That is the facing pattern piece for the neckline. To make one, trace your neckline curve, and make another curve above 1 1/2" below. Add a sticky down yoke bit (stop me if I'm getting too technical) about 3" long to support the slit in the neckline and you are off and running.

Cut two dashiki pieces on a length-wise fold from your newly minted pattern. Note: Your pattern does not include hem or seam allowances, you must add them when cutting.

Cut two neckline interfacing pieces from the same material. Add seam allowances to the end of the curve.

Since we do not actually need two sticky down yoke things, cut off one of the dingles on one piece to serve as the facing on the back of the neck.

Place the two neckline facing pieces right sides together and stitch at the top of the curves like so:Finish the outside edge of the neckline facing with a zig zag stitch or a serger. (The inside edge we will be sewing to the dashiki so don't worry about it.)

To sew the dashiki, put the two pieces right sides together and stitch along the top of the shoulders and along both sides, like so:Hem the bottom of the dashiki and the arm openings.

To sew on the neck facing, align the shoulder seams with the seams on the facing right sides together. Pin the whole thing in place. Using chalk or washable marker, draw a line down the centre of the sticky down part from the neck to about 1/2" from the bottom. This is to be the place where we will slit open the neckline.Stitch around the neckline, joining the dashiki and facing. When you encounter your marked line, stitch down one side of the line coming to a point at the end and then (with your needle in the fabric) lift the presser foot to swivel the fabric to stitch back up the other side of the line. Try to make your stitches only 1/8" or less away from your first line going down.A word of caution. Do not back stitch or bunch up your stitches at the point. The less stitching in the area, the nicer the point will be in your opening.

Cut your fabric from the neckline to as far as you can go along your marked line. Be very careful not to cut your stitches.Clip the corners at the top of the neckline slit and turn the facing inside the dashiki, wrong sides together. Press the neck line flat.

Top stitch around the neckline at about 1/8".
And that is that.

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