Pages

4.12.2008

elastic waist wrap pants


Wrap pants are a wonder during hot weather, particularly if they are made from linen. I like the traditional double tie wrap pants, but they can be a pain to re-tie every time you wee. For children, the ties are completely impractical and discretion becomes an issue on the playground when your pants open up all the way to your waistband. So, changing up the waist a little bit, and adding a few extra stitches on the side, I've made these kid (big and small) friendly pants, that have all the cooling benefits of the wrap pants, but are easier to get on and off and a whole lot more discreet.
Start with a favorite pattern for pants (or capris) that normally uses an elastic waist (or alter a pattern to do so). Trace out that pattern on a seperate piece of tissue or with wax paper, leaving some room on the sides of the pattern to make alterations.

An alternative: there are also instructions on how to make your own pattern on the original double tie wrap pants tutorial. With a bit of fandangling, you can increase the waist allowance to ensure it comes up over your hips. Then you can either do an elastic waist as suggested here orIf you use this pattern, you can make a casing to make a single tie for the front or side (like scrub pants). However, I haven't tried this yet so I can not vouch for the fit.

For the capris I've made here, I used a favorite pattern in a children's size 3T or 4T. To the entire length of the outside leg seams (both front and back) I've added 2" to make the overlapping portion of the pants. Big people: add more inches for the overlap.

You'll also want to take a moment to decide how you are going to finish the edges of the pants. Mainly the length of the pants will be affected depending on how you want to finish the hem. You may not need any alteration here if you do a regular hem on the bottom. For these pants, I've cut off the hem allowance since I decided to treat the bottoms as an extention of the sides. I find it's nice to add a bit of curve to the bottom of wrap pants since a square edge tends to curl out, but this is mostly aesthetics.

After you make your pattern alterations, cut out your pieces and sew together to the inside seams and crotch. Hem or otherwise finish the side seams and bottom.
To put in the elastic waist, I decided to sew together the overlap and treat it as a regular waistband with a casing for elastic. I've made notches on the top of the front and back leg pieces that indicate where the original seam would of been (2" from the edge).
Align these notches and pin in place, making the topmost overlapped piece the front of the leg (in otherwords, you want the front of your pants to overlap the back of your pants, unless you enjoy having your pants flap open everytime you take a step. Which you might - I make no judgement.)

Make a mark where the waistline of your pants are and stitch the two edges to each other to the waistline mark. This closes up the overlaps so you can treat the waistband casing as one piece.
Add your casing and elastic band, finishing the waist as usual.

For my daughter's pants, I wanted to close the top few inches of the flaps to avoid underwear peek a boos (reason: obvious). One way to do so is to stitch in the ditch of your topmost flap side seam. Or you could add buttons, snaps, or a pocket. But, since I am beginning to learn embroidery, I decided to do a blanket stitch all along the edges of the sides and bottom with some cotton yarn, stitching the top flap directly onto the bottom flap for the top 3":Anyway you close the top of the sides, you can see it does make a difference in action:

All that's left to do is wait for some warm weather.

Comments/questions welcome, as always :)


**************************************************************
This is a free tutorial and I encourage you to use the information in any way you need to (check the disclaimer at the bottom of the page). If it works for you, please consider supporting my etsy shop by purchasing a Little Print Design pattern or toss a dollar or two in my paypal to show appreciation and to encourage me to offer up even more quality patterns and tutorials.






Thank you!
Questions about the Donation? FAQ here.

4.05.2008

adding pockets to your basic pants pattern

There comes a point in any young person's life when pockets become really important for holding all the things mom won't (dirty pennies picked up off the street), things you need to conceal (wrappers from pilfered gum), and a place to shove your hands into when you need to make a point to the lady down at the corner store who always wants you to give her high-fives.

I usually use a very basic pants pattern that fits my daughter well and then modify and embellish the pattern whenever I make a new pair. Since capri season is coming up (or here already, according to my daughter), I've been in production and have started adding pockets. Here for you is one easy way to modify a basic pattern to add pockets.

Modifying your pattern

Begin with the front piece of your basic pants pattern (trace onto a piece of regular paper, wax [or freezer] paper, or tissue paper and preserve your original).

Establish how big of a pocket you would like. Make sure that you take into account the waistline of the pants leave enough room to get the hand into at the top. Make it long enough to store something really good in there. Also take into account what type of opening you would like - curvy, deep, or straight at an angle. This is the artistic part.

I've marked the desired opening of my pocket with a solid line, and used a dashed line to indicate how big the inside of the pocket shall be.Place a sheet of tissue or wax paper over top (if using wax paper, use a sharpie pen) and trace the inside pocket.Take another sheet of tissue or wax paper and mark the area where the front part of the lining should be (the part that the top of your hand touches when you put your hand inside your own pocket). Trace the curve of the inside pocket piece and the curve of the pocket opening on the pants adding a seam allowance to the pants pocket opening. Like so:While you are at it, add a seam allowance to your pants pattern piece at the pocket opening.Cut out and label all of your pieces.
Sewing the pockets

Cut out assemble your pattern pieces (back of pants pieces not shown). Don't forget to leave room to share your work space. With right sides together, sew the pocket opening of the a front pant leg to the front pocket lining. Clip curves.Turn the pocket and press seam. Add a top stitch to keep it all in place.Take the inside pocket piece and position over the pocket area, with the right side facing the outside of the pants. Pin to the pocket opening piece along edges and sew. (Do not sew onto front of pants, unless you desire to have that seam showing. Which you might.)With your pocket pieces sewn together, all that is left is to secure the pocket lining to the pants to make it easier to sew. Machine baste the sides and top portion of the pocket.Complete your pattern as per usual.
******************************************************************
This is a free tutorial and I encourage you to use the information in any way you need to (check the disclaimer at the bottom of the page). If it works for you, please consider supporting my etsy shop by purchasing a Little Print Design pattern or toss a dollar or two in my paypal to show appreciation and to encourage me to offer up even more quality patterns and tutorials.






Thank you!
Questions about the Donation? FAQ here.