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8.19.2009

the pufffing of the sleeves

A few weeks ago I said I would answer any questions that you may have, sewing or otherwise related, in posts. Y'all are going to have to excuse the relative slowness of my responses. Besides being homeless at the moment, I also live in toddler time, ie, time moves slow and languid but absolutely nothing gets done. But, since I have access to a rather spanky computer for a day or two, which has my old friend Windows Paint, it's time I make good on my promise.

Grace emailed me almost immediately after I put out the question question and she's definitely been patient with me, so I think we should start with her query. Or queries, she actually had two. One was how to make puff sleeves and the other was about making a designing a circle yoke. To simply, I'll break them up into two posts.

Grace claims to be a novice sewer, at least on the garment end of things, and has a 10 month old baby girl, which explains the puff sleeve maddness. Puff sleeves, after my inital exploration of them, turns out to be my not so favorite thing to do. Maybe it's because I can not gather them with my favorite method (with clear elastic) and either must pull a gather on the serger (try to adjust your differencial feed as you serge the edge of the sleeve to gather up the appropriate portion) or with ye ol' baste and pull method (shutter, but most likely the best method for a small gather).

I know Grace you said you're not into patterns, but I'm going to show you how to adjust an 'easy' basic pattern (try New Look or Simplicity) with sleeves into the puff sleeve variety. This way you can make the pattern as is, getting the hang of its assembly, then have a go at the puff sleeves, learning a lot about how patterns are altered to create different looks and some simple gathering. The method is similar to adding gathers to pattern pieces, discussed here.

You've got your basic sleeve pattern piece, that you have traced onto a seperate sheet of tissue or regular paper from your pattern:
Use a ruler and pencil to divide the sleeve into four pieces, by drawing a straight line down from the top (often the top of the pattern piece isn't the the top of the arc, since the shoulder rolls forward slightly - use the top of the piece as indicated on the pattern piece if it is marked), and two more on either side as shown here:
Cut along the lines. Place your pattern pieces in their appropriate alignment onto another sheet of paper. Fan out the top pieces, while keeping the bottoms together. This is how you are going to get the extra fabric for the 'puff' part of the sleeve.Tape down the sleeve in the new orientation. With your pencil, redraw the top of the sleeve (use a french curve square if you've got one for smooth lines). The outside pieces will naturally lead you into a higher curve on the top. Go with it, using the original pieces as a curve guideline.
Cut out the new piece. When you sew in you sleeve, first gather between the two outside cut pieces until the gather is the same size as the armhole (use the original sleeve piece as a guide if it is helpful.)That will give you adequate puff, Grace, I believe.
Before I go, I would like to mention to new sewers that I tried very hard to use patterns when I first started out and failed miserably. I also found tutorials difficult to follow (too many words!) Still, patterns are still incredibly helpful when learning how a garment is created, what the various pieces look like, and how they are put together. I suggest to try a few, but before you buy one, look for the 'easy' varieties (which aren't actually any easier, but contain more explicit instructions) and open up the pattern in the store (ignoring the evil looks the notions sales associate will be giving you - actually, send you kids over to the zipper section, that'll give her something real to worry about) and check out the illustrations. Most of us are visual when putting together pattern. There has been many people who say they only look at illustrations on my tutorials and never read the instructions (can't say I blame them ;D). So, check out the pictures, see if you can understand what's going on there, before you take the pattern home. This should help lower the frustration level.

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This is a free tutorial and I encourage you to use the information in any way you need to (check the disclaimer at the bottom of the page). If it works for you, please consider supporting my etsy shop by purchasing a Little Print Design pattern or toss a dollar or two in my paypal to show appreciation and to encourage me to offer up even more quality patterns and tutorials.






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8.18.2009

breaking needles while breaking ground: some thoughts on learing a new skill

Hey, I found me a computer so I can drop a quick hello. For all of you who were wondering how in the world I am going to do crafts while travelling/living in an RV, I am now among your ranks. Except for a brief time, as a good friend of mine explored her new (second hand) serger for the first time and I offered supportive words ('just giv'er!' and 'would you like me to cut all the threads so you can practice threading from scratch?'), I have done not a stitch of anything. Smootch hasn't even applied glue to paper since we started out. I hope thing will settle down soon (we are experiencing some serious technical difficulities with the RV still) and I can get back to playing. I miss it all so much.

But, I do have some crafty type blathering with a slight deviation into a macro-scale analysis social phenomena (that whole university degree in sociology seems to surface occassionally despite my supression efforts), a bit of my story, and a whole shwack of my know-it-all-ism. The words below were originally posted as a guest contributor on Things Mommies Love a couple of weeks back. Check out my broken needle collection (which is just a small sample). Does anyone else save broken and bent needles? Are we hardcore or what?! :D

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Let me introduce myself by showing you how incompetent I am.

Below is a small portion of the embarrassingly large collection of bent, broken and really messed up needles and pins I saved from my first year of learning to sew.





A natural with the sewing machine I am not. Almost every day for a year I would be stitching along, gently muttering to myself as is my way, and be suddenly interrupted by an unnatural crunch or bang or shiny pointy thing flying by at eye embedding velocity. Despite my painfully obvious lack of natural ability at sewing, I persevered. Which I think is why I saved all the little bits of broken needles that were not lost to the carpet or my husband’s feet. I knew that I was so bad at it that I couldn’t help but get better. And I wanted to one day show myself how useless I was when I began.

Three years later, I still break a frightful number of needles. But I am hooked enough on sewing that I’ve begun making a small income from making patterns. For myself, this learning to sew and actually making a small but respectable living from it is a change in character on par with demon possession. Four years ago I would of declared I’d rather have my tongue eaten by red ants than to actually thread a needle. Four years ago I was an academic with a new baby, who considered handicrafts as a topic only suitable for research and dissection, a pastime of the pioneers and Victorian women with parlors. Not really something having to do with me or the real world. But, despite myself, here I am.

What happened? Simple. I was bitten by the same bug that now plagues so many of us: She who elevates the domestic into Art. The new baby was my entry into a world of pacifiers, onesies, and the kitchen (eventually the little mite had to eat something besides me.) Trying to learn a little about what I was doing turned out to be a gateway to all sorts of glossy magazines and cleverly illustrated books about what is loosely called domestic skills. I got hooked on Martha.

So many of us who are now in the parenting trenches with young children have come to our domestic situations with alternating distain for housework (and a reflexive gag to the word ‘housewife’), and a semi-erotic fascination with the art of homemaking. It is the domestic divas, all the way from the corporate illusions with their glossy magazines to the earthy honesty of crafty bloggers, that we love. It’s their decorous lives and staged calm that we envy and emulate. We want to be them and live in their unbounded and unfractured homes, where friends, children, baking bread and having to do the dishes all come together in a seamless package, achievable by anyone with a glue gun and some rudimentary sewing skills.

Seduced by the possibility of glitter glue, the courage hinted at by the term DIY, along with some honest urges to create and build, a whole lot of women are teaching themselves some time honored skills. Sewing, knitting, crocheting, scrap booking (documenting), cooking, quilting, needlework, jewelry making and more. We do it for our children and for ourselves.

The learning of the domestic arts is not straight forward. It is a realm loaded with political meaning, culturally, on the newsstands, from our families. There is often strong feelings, both positive and negative associated with learning to sew or knit. Many of us actually have a bit of previous experience in what we are trying to learn. The first encounter is usually with one of those sweet old granny types who get us going as preschoolers with some yarn and a crochet hook to knot into endless chains of rainbow garland.

If only we could of stayed at grandma’s knee! But, off to school to learn the three Rs and not until junior high does someone official decide that a brief introduction, a half term for each topic in the domestic, will round out our academic careers. I know some of you loved Home Ec., but for many of us it was a test to discover our pain thresholds. Sewing, knitting, these things are best taught – if someone is to teach you – one on one by someone loving (or at least kind), where we feel safe and warm and there are cookies in close proximity. Because there is going to be a lot of hard work and no guarantees that the end product will be attractive or wearable. In a classroom, or, in my junior high, a fluorescent lit chamber of horrors, the handcrafts become a form of torture, meant to highlight our adolescent awkwardness and hold our eternal hopelessness with an ancient Singer up for our classmate’s amusement. Remember, this is the same class that would publicly weigh 12 year old girls and give provide helpful advice on weight management. Obviously there is a malevolent force at work.

By the time we are adults we are convinced that needlework/knitting/rug hooking is ‘just not our thing’. Our sewing goes as deep as stapling a fallen hem back up before work and our cooking skills amount to a folder full of restaurant delivery menus. Yet, now, here we are, full grown, with kids, and looking at the magazines, the blogs, the quilt shows, and feeling primal inspiration. And inspiration is not a feeling that is easily dismissed.

The question is, then, how to start again, now that we are adults? How does one learn to sew/knit/bake bread?

I think of this question often. How do we learn? Especially now that we are in our 20s, 30s, 40s and are so busy with children, home, and work that a few moments to ourselves at the end of the day is an invitation to a margarita and some darkly ironic television. How to plunge ourselves into learning something so intimidating? More than that, if you are going to learn, how do you not waste time?! We’ve only got a few minutes a day! No time to meander through endless instructions and silly projects designed to teach you the basics but are basically useless. We want something we can sew during a naptime and not feel that we would have better spent our time vacuuming when junior wakes up.

I’m feeling pretty good about the small distance I’ve covered since I began to sew three years ago. But I have a long list of things I’d like to get some practical knowledge of, including my old nemesis knitting, which always makes me say words that I’d rather my children not repeat. To help myself out, I keep in mind some of the lessons I learnt along with the stitching. I’d like to share them with you, on the small chance that you will pass along some of your gleaned wisdom to me.

- Start with what interests you. Do not think, “I’ll make a Kleenex holder because the book says it’s a good beginner project and making a shirt like I really want to is for people who know what they are doing, which isn’t me.” Kleenex holders are boring. Make the shirt. You may not have a good shirt at the end, but you will know a whole lot more than any silly Kleenex holder would of taught you. Keep your motivation by pursing what is interesting to you right now.

- Learning is holistic. There is much range to what can be learnt, and going from A to B to C is the slow way. We are smart (and busy). Aim to start with M, N, and O, and most likely the ABC will be learnt along the way.

- Find a spot in the bottom of the closet (underneath where the cat sleeps preferably) for unfinished or just plain bad projects. Truth: not everything you will make will be beautiful and perfect. Make room for the ugly and messy. Mistakes and failures are inevitable. And useful, because we really do learn more from our mistakes. Grow comfortable with these inevitable blunders, look and learn from them, and then move on.

- Because moving on – the processes or flow - is what it is all about, not the end product. If you are not enjoying the overall activity (keeping in mind that not every moment will be rapturous), then rethink your attachment to it. Why are you doing this? Learning is not about gritting your teeth and struggling through. Learning is exciting and fun and, sometimes, about discovering your own determination and character. Learning is about following your heart, and if your heart says, ‘this sucks!’, then you’d better listen.

- Find a loving community. The internet is a fantastic resource for all sorts of interests. There also are community groups, friends, and perhaps even grandmas. Somewhere are some good people who are also learning or know what you want to know. Go find them.

Most of all, I have found that I should not get too invested in the labels – academic, mother, crafty person, pattern maker. Labels are limiting and really do no justice to what those titles actually mean. And labeling misses content. I know people who knit pink infant pinafores and others who knit skulls on bikinis. Night and day. Yet the skill set is the same and both come from the well-spring of creativity that we all share. Let your intuition and desires be your guide and you will find yourself learning exactly what you need to know.

8.04.2009

to do: buttons

I've just gotten my sewing machine back from the shop from a much needed tune up. It's been sewing fairly wonky for awhile now. I am a bit ashamed, but I throw the timing out on it all too frequently, usually from hitting a pin while sewing.

Sewing with bad timing will create some strange stitching. Usually a bit too loose, though I tend to press on for a bit when sewing for my kids, since they never care what my stitching looks like and the tune up is frightening expensive. I hope to one day learn to reset the timing myself.

Straight sewing is one thing, but making buttonholes with misfiring machine is something I can not push on with. They just look awful and half the time pull out. So, I have a couple of projects that have been sitting for actual months, waiting for buttonholes. I know I shouldn't do this, especially with kids' clothes, because if I wait too long the kid will grow out of the clothes before they even try them on. I think I may get this from my grandma, who has a stack of knitting that fits... no one :(

A couple of days ago it was unseasonably cool so I decided to hell with it and got out a little linen jacket I had put together for Birdie Boy but never finished the buttons. Here he is, in his flowered linen jacket.



Birdie Boy loves flowers. It's one of his few non-family member words he says (the others are tofu, vacuum, and truck). The light jacket was made from the same Ottobre pattern I used for this polka dotted shirt. The sleeves are rolled back here, all stiff from the linen... really could use those buttons.



I hear a lot about how sewing for boys is either boring or restrictive. I know that handmade clothing for boys is underappreciated, even though they are often technically more difficult. I tend to disagree (or, rather, ignore) the idea that boys clothes must been plain and of traditional styles. I think sewing for boys can be a lot of fun, especially if you do not have to bother with tedious gathering (though, I do miss the twirling after). The main problem is a narrow idea of what boys should wear. I'm not so much about the shoulds. I suppose every once in awhile someone may cock an eyebrow at my son's flowered jacket (with pink and purple no less!), but when they see my what my Smootch is wearing, since she tends to dress herself in a Cinderella meets Pretty Woman meets Tank Girl sort of style, they generally forget all about the boy.


What do you think? After decades of discussion about what girls can wear, they can now pretty much wear whatever they want. Most boys' clothes aren't restrictive, ties not withstanding, which was a major problem with girls clothes in the past, but the do tend towards the dark colours. And, of course, boys can't wear pink! Okay, my boy wears pink, but I know many people think I dress my kid weird and worry about the long term affects (as if!)

I would love to read your thoughts on sewing for boys. Boring? Challenging? Underappreciated? Have no idea what I mean?

Oh, and if anyone knows of a good guide to resetting the timing on my sewing machine, you'd really save me a lot of money :)

last chance for etsy!

'Lo, there!

I'm having a terrible time uploading images with blogger the past few days, so you'll have to sit tight while I figure it out. We're T minus 3 days to launch and taking care of so many little details. I'm not really a kind of details kind of gal, but it seems we might enjoy the ability to keep in touch with our family (or order pizza) and need a phone, but no longer need our life insurance (just one fun part of not having debt) but Sybil (the RV) needs a piece to make her dashboard heater work... I won't bore you more preparing these life-on-the-road blather (I have a whole other blog for that) but I will say this:

1. I have several blog entries coming up, including a couple of questions (in which I actually answer, not just make you do the work... well, maybe you could add your two cents too, I always like to hear what you've got to say) and even a project (a low tech child locator), and another post about how bad I am at getting around to doing what needs done :D

2. I am putting my etsy shop on vacation mode tomorrow, where it will remain for at least a month, maybe two. Or three. If you've been contemplating a pattern or two, now is a good time to buy :)

So, until I fix the pics...