create a child's tee pattern

The instructions here are actually for two different types of tee shirt patterns from an existing garment: a regular tee like so,
(which is actually too big for the wee model, but you get the idea)
and a lap tee, such as this, This tutorial is about how to create the pattern, and not how to sew the pattern together. I am assuming a basic familarity with sewing this type of pattern, although I can in the future, if anyone wants, go over the basic points on how to sew a tee shirt.

Oh, and another quick disclaimer: this way of creating a pattern will work well for children, but not so great for adult clothing. The reason is is that most small kids are basically straight up and down and you can make the front and back the same dimesions. With adults (and some kids) we've got all sorts of bumps and curves that interfere with a garment hanging down nicely. Most patterns compensate for and enhance our curves with darts, extra ease, etc. But for us who just need to build our small ones some comfortable tees (and we need to be able to make it during nap time), this pattern works quite well to make quick, easy, comfortable and attractive tees.

And now on with the show.

The foundation for this pattern is an existing tee that fits well. This one here is very orange, but comfy and, obviously from the stains, well loved:

Lay the tee out as flat as you can (keeping in mind that it will not lay perfectly flat or straight ever, especially if its been worn alot).

Mark with a dot the points where

-the shoulder seams meet the neckline

-the shoulder seams meet the sleeve

-the bottom sleeve seam meet the bodice

Don't worry about the sleeve right now, we'll do that part later.

To make two pattern pieces, a front and a back, mark with a dot the mid-point of the back of the neck hem, and another mark for the front of the neck hem (you'll have to lift the shirt, keeping your finger on the mark, and get your pen in there as best as you can).

Sketch in the shape of the neck hem, one of the shoulders, and one arm hole (hold the seam and lift the sleeve away from the paper to mark approximately the shape - same as with neckline). Also trace the line of one side and half the bottom of the shirt.

The reason why only half the shirt is drawn in is that you are going to fold the paper over along the vertical center of the shirt and then cut out along the lines you have drawn plus seam allowances. The seam allowances go all around the outside of the bodice (not the folded edge) with a little bit extra at the bottom to make a hem with.
Fold the paper in half and cut either a 3/8" or 5/8" away from your lines (which ever seam allowance you feel most comfortable with). You may want to measure out this distance, but I usually just sorta wing it (see picture below).

Important: cut the neckline according to the highest neckline (the back piece).

Once you've cut your pattern out of the folded paper, unfold the paper and cut down the center along your fold:

Allocate one pattern piece to be the front and the other the back. Cut the front piece according to the front neckline.

That takes care of the front and back pieces. When you use your pattern, place the vertical center along a fold and cut around the bottom, sides, and top of the piece.

To make life easier for you, I recommend taking a moment to label the pieces, write down the size, 'align with fold' marks, seam allowances, and any other information you'll find helpful in the future.

Time for the sleeve.

Take one of your bodice pattern pieces and lay it down on a sheet of paper so that the top seam (but not the seam allowance) is aligned with the top edge of the paper.

Trace the curve of the armhole onto the paper.

Take away the pattern piece and using your child's arm and wrist measurements, mark where the sleeve should end and how wide the wrist should be (note: for the wrist measurement, add a few extra inches of room here. Best bet is to take the measurement off a long sleeve shirt that your child already enjoy's wearing.)

This is your approximate shape (the double line here represents the seam allowance):

The arrow in the picture indicates where I've draw in a little slanted triangle at the armpit where experience has taught me that without that little angle, the fit is awkward and tight. Just put a little nooby thing in the same place on yours and then trace around for the seam allowance.

The wrist is indented then flares because that is where you are going to fold under and hem. Mine is rather dramatic, you may with to make yours less so. (Since I have a little girl, I sometimes just do lettuce edging instead and the dramatic flare adds a little something.)

Cut out your sleeve and label it. When using your sleeve pattern piece, lay the top edge along a fold and cut around the rest. This will open up into one sleeve.

That is one complete pattern for a tee shirt. If you get the impression that it is a little loosey goosey and slap-dash, you are right. It lacks finesse, I admit. But, again, it will create a very functional tee, and it is fast and fun. I say, keep the meticious sewing for special occasions (or when you have a hankerin') and enjoy yourself with fabrics and embellishments.

This basic tee can be altered in a hundred ways, and embellished in thousands. Try different techniques for heming (lettuce edging, ribbing, using bias tape, rolled hem, etc.) Add a hood or pockets. Embellish with ribbons and appliques.

A tee made with the pattern created here:

And you can use this pattern to make another pattern for a lap tee. Like so:

Take your back pattern piece and trace it out on a fresh piece of paper folded in half along the vertical center (it will act the same as when you folded vertically to make your front and back pieces for the regular tee):

The paper on the left is the fresh paper with the regular tee pattern traced onto it. It has been folded in half along the vertical center so that there will be two half bodice pieces when we are done, the same as the above directions.

Cut the pattern out along the bottom and side. Leave the shoulder area intact.
Figure out how far over you want the overlap of the lap tee to go down the armhole. Mark this point and measure it.
Measuring straight up from the shoulder, mark the same distance above the shoulder seam.

Fold the paper from the point of the shoulder seam where it meets the arm across to the vertical center at a 90 degree angle.
With the paper folded, cut out the armhole.

Open the paper up and draw a curved line up to the topmost mark you have made from the point where the neck hem meets the shoulder seam. This is the angle in which the overlapped portion of the lap tee will come down over the shoulder. Cut it out. (btw, my armhole always turns out a bit pointy right at the shoulder seam rather than a nice regular curve - a quik of making your own curves on a two dimensional surface without any funky curvy rulers. I just trim that little bit straight so my shoulder looks normal. If this bit of information just confused you, ignore it.)

Unfold the vertical center fold and cut the bodice in half.

You have two back pieces at this point and want to turn one of them into a front piece.

Use the front piece of your regular tee pattern to mark the front neckline.

It is even more important than your regular tee pattern to mark the seam allowance measurement on the pieces since you do not have any handy lines drawn in. Also, the mark place along the armhole should be transfered onto the front piece and onto your fabric when you cut out your pattern (try tailor's chalk) to indicate how far to overlap the shoulders when sewing. (I always forget this and have to go back to my pattern pieces after I've sewn the shoulder seams.)

And there is your lap tee pattern since you can use the sleeve from the regular tee pattern. (Just make sure to store them together.)

As always, I welcome questions and comments.

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